Gearbox Problems

So I was just testing my new Tokyo Marui midcap magazines today and I was having feeding problems. They jammed a few times - but I figured that the magazines needed to be cleaned and lubed. As I shot through the last magazine, the gun made a terrible whirring/ screaming sound. I wasn't sure what was going on, so I took it inside and loosened the motor. When That didn't solve the problem, I opted to open the gun to see if I could spot the problem. It looked as if my gearbox had jammed so I went ahead and opened it. Upon doing so, I found that my spur gear was missing a tooth. I'm not sure if the missing tooth actually caused the problem, but when I meshed the gears together, they seemed to work fine - even with the missing tooth. Should I go ahead and reassemble my gun or wait for replacement gears?

Also, The whole gearbox is full of crappy grease and dirt, the wiring's insulation has been cut in several spots and the piston head and O-ring are destroyed. I'm thinking that this M16 needs an internal overhaul before I work on the externals. I'm more focused on the balance of torque and speed. I'm happy with a 750 - 900 rounds per minute rate of fire. I really would like to pump up the range, since it really doesn't perform too well at a distance currently. I've decided on a Madbull hopup unit and a Madbull 6.01 tightbore barrel, but when it comes to replacement and upgrade parts for the gearbox - I'm rather clueless. Can anyone help me decide on replacements for the following parts:

• Cylinder
  
• Cylinder Head
  
• Piston
  
• Piston Head
  
• Gears

I was thinking about the Guarder Bore-up piston/cylinder head set. How good is it?

Lastly, what good little tune-ups should I do to ensure maximum performance?

Thanks guys!

first off, don't get a 6.01, its not gonna do you any good, a larger bore barrel is gonna work better for you.

for a piston get a AIM/Matrix red polycarbonate with metal teeth
piston head get an AIM/Matrix red aluminum piston head

guarder cylinder head with double o-ring

shs gears torque or high torque gears (I've seen some rebranded as Matrix ones....)

Thanks - Got it. So like 6.03 tightbore? Or should I stick with the stock barrel? That actually makes sense after I sit down and think about it. I fire a lot rounds and the smaller bore will just get gunked up quicker. I guess those are for more of a sniper/ DMR type rifle, firing less shots.

That's pretty much what I was looking for, though I'll let others throw their opinions in to get a variety of options.

To let everyone know - My rifle shot around 320 FPS with .2 gram BBs last time I chrono'd it, so I have plenty of FPS wiggle room to stay within field FPS limits. I wouldn't like to exceed 400FPS though.

https://metroatlantaairsoft.darkbb.com/t264-this-is-huge-comparing-601mm-tightbore-to-a-608mm-stock-barrel-polishing-your-barrel-for-more-accuracy

i use a stock brass barrel in my DMR, and i polish it with two stands of 550 cord, an electric screw driver and some car wax.
and bolt-action users prefer larger bore barrels.

Yes, CAG is correct, do not get a 6.01, 6.03 is fine, Prometheus and Madbull make great barrels. You can also look into using your stock barrel, and polishing it like CAG also said. Works very well. Range mostly comes from hop up system, you want a good source of backspin. A nice bucking Prometheus, PDI with heavy bbs will increase range a lot. .25+ but really at least .28.
Flat hop and Rhop are better than regular bucking, but take some work to fine tune.

I would get some nice compression parts such as Guarder, but you don't need bore up. Piston SHS brand makes good ones, as well as JG for only 400fps. Gears you can use SHS brand 18:1 ratio since 400fps is not that stressful on motor, you can also use JG, xyt, ge, etc. they are just as strong, but are not as precisely cut I believe.

I'd use a element/JG cream/ lonex/bravo piston head. they seal good and are light weight.

mods you can do are
-use #14 oring
-Teflon tape cylinder head for better airseal (Guarder should not really need this)
-use oring air nozzle (Guarder is example)
-sand front of tappet plate to help nozzle sit farther forward to seal with bucking
-tightly wrap bucking with dental floss or Teflon tape to create no room for air leak between bucking and barrel.

there are some things I'm missing, and I'm tired and didn't read whole thread, but this is some things you can do to help tune range and accuracy through consistency of velocity.

piston head
http://airdogshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_81&products_id=448
piston
http://airdogshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_79&products_id=450
cylinder head
http://airdogshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_83&products_id=407

kwa buckings have worked really well for me,
the new reaps buckings are working well in my dmr

also firefly or h-hop nubs would also help with accuracy.