upgrades to d-boys spr

hey folks just looking for some thoughts on some internal upgrades for my d-boys spr im kind of on a budget of $150 any suggestions would be great

Did you get it from Airdog?

yes i did

You stole my gun....lol jk. If I had one, I'd get a new hop up unit and bucking. Next I would get a 6.03 Tightbore

thanks man that sounds great i might i give that a try and sorry about stealing your gun

The Hopup and bucking in your spr should be more than adequate for now. I would upgrade the spring and inner barrel.

ATLAS wrote:The Hopup and bucking in your spr should be more than adaquite for now. I would upgrade the spring and inner barrel.

I heard that the D-Boys' hop up was crap.

reconsniperga wrote:

ATLAS wrote:The Hopup and bucking in your spr should be more than adaquite for now. I would upgrade the spring and inner barrel.

I heard that the D-Boys' hop up was crap.

I wouldn't ever buy another Dboys rifle, but the hopup in my dboys spr works suprisingly well. It is one of the few things i have not had to take apart and reconfigure.

Having been inside of one of these the first thing you need to do is the gear box! It has enough grease in it to cover ten gearboxes and the one I did had shards of metal floating in it . . . four to be exact and the longest was at least 3/8"!
Then you will need metal bushings and a metal ball bearing spring guide. Not sure what your FPS is stock but would recommend going to better spring as well as a ball bearing piston head and new piston. Given the barrel length I would also say you need a non-ported cylinder as the one in it is ported.
Polish the inner barrel or get a tightbore but the hop-up seems to be a decent metal unit though nothing remarkable.
GEARBOX FIRST!!!!

Tinman wrote:Having been inside of one of these the first thing you need to do is the gear box! It has enough grease in it to cover ten gearboxes and the one I did had shards of metal floating in it . . . four to be exact and the longest was 3/8"!
Then you will need metal bushings and a metal ball bearing spring guide. Not sure what your FPS is stock but would recommend going to better spring as well as a ball bearing piston head and new piston.
Polish the inner barrel or get a tightbore but the hop-up seems to be a decent metal unit though nothing remarkable.
GEARBOX FIRST!!!!

Like i said, I would not buy another Ddoys rifle. Love my spr now, though.

Tinman wrote:Having been inside of one of these the first thing you need to do is the gear box! It has enough grease in it to cover ten gearboxes and the one I did had shards of metal floating in it . . . four to be exact and the longest was at least 3/8"!
Then you will need metal bushings and a metal ball bearing spring guide. Not sure what your FPS is stock but would recommend going to better spring as well as a ball bearing piston head and new piston. Given the barrel length I would also say you need a non-ported cylinder as the one in it is ported.
Polish the inner barrel or get a tightbore but the hop-up seems to be a decent metal unit though nothing remarkable.
GEARBOX FIRST!!!!

I have actually been reading that the ported cylinder even though it has a hole actually gives a higher FPS, because instead of the bb being pushed out of the barrel right from the beginning of the piston release which will have a lower speed, and the bb being close to out of the barrel once it reaches a higher speed. The ported cylinder though can let some of the air escape and wont affect the bb until after the port once the piston has gained speed and will push the bb out faster. I have never tried this but I think I will soon and will post the results.

#CW!!ZERO wrote:I have actually been reading that the ported cylinder even though it has a hole actually gives a higher FPS
I have never tried this but I think I will soon and will post the results.

Well, you have certainly been in more mech boxes than me but most of what I read sez non-ported and/or tapered cylinder for longer barrels to maintain more air pressure where as high speed needs a ported cylinder. Would be interested to see your results . . . I put a non-ported systema teflon cylinder in the one I did.
I too have an SPR but it is the A&K model and though it looks the same it is a COMPLETELY different gun . . . inside and out!

#CW!!ZERO wrote:

Tinman wrote:Having been inside of one of these the first thing you need to do is the gear box! It has enough grease in it to cover ten gearboxes and the one I did had shards of metal floating in it . . . four to be exact and the longest was at least 3/8"!
Then you will need metal bushings and a metal ball bearing spring guide. Not sure what your FPS is stock but would recommend going to better spring as well as a ball bearing piston head and new piston. Given the barrel length I would also say you need a non-ported cylinder as the one in it is ported.
Polish the inner barrel or get a tightbore but the hop-up seems to be a decent metal unit though nothing remarkable.
GEARBOX FIRST!!!!

I have actually been reading that the ported cylinder even though it has a hole actually gives a higher FPS, because instead of the bb being pushed out of the barrel right from the beginning of the piston release which will have a lower speed, and the bb being close to out of the barrel once it reaches a higher speed. The ported cylinder though can let some of the air escape and wont affect the bb until after the port once the piston has gained speed and will push the bb out faster. I have never tried this but I think I will soon and will post the results.

I am going to have to side with TINMAN on this one, big suprise. For that to be plausable the compressed spring would have to accelerate in a linear manor when released. This doesn't happen. That is partially the reason they based AEG's on springs. When the spring is release it reaches almost instant terminal velocity. This theory would also mean that the bb exits the barrel before the spring has stopped moving. Air pushes air. I do see how a ported cylinder would greatly increase your ROF.

ATLAS wrote:I do see how a ported cylinder would greatly increase your ROF.

A ported cylinder, in theory, reduces the portion of the compression stroke. Easiest way to see this in action is to just put a finger over the nozzle and do a compression check with the mech box apart . . . you can feel the resistance come into play the moment that the o-ring gets a seal around the cylinder wall . . . something that cannot happen till after it passes the port.
To stay on topic . . .
The A&K version of this gun comes with metal bushings, a metal BB spring guide, non-ported cylinder, and m130 spring. It shoots stock about 425fps. The Dboys will likely be at least 75fps slower.
The A&K also has a much tougher butt-stock and metal buttplate . . . However, the A&K does not include a bipod or sling attachment point at the back of the receiver. It does come with a cheap RIS mount hand-grip. (The upper and lower receivers are also entirely different makes.)

The 7mm bearing that the Dboys claims to hae are in fact nylon bushings, if you do any upgrades i would relpace them just for good measure. You are going to have some trouble with the bushing/bearing that sits under the fire selector. I would suggest leaving that one a bushing, otherwise it may cause you some problems with the fire selector switch, because the metal bearings are widder and it will rub if not recessed enough.

I, well Rhino, put a 455mm (363 is stock) tight bore in my G36K. After install, the fps dropped to 340. Tinman helped me upgrade the mech box to the same specs as his old g36, with the difference being a non ported cylinder. I seemed to have the fps advantage over the same specs minus the non ported cylinder. (I was shooting 415, the other was 390 to 400) The extra compression seems to make a nice difference. Of course the only way to truly measure the effectiveness would be to test a gun with a ported and non ported cylinder.

As for the idea that the non ported cylinder starts pushing the bb before full compression: I guess that seems theoretically possible, but honestly, the difference between the piston traveling the length of a non ported cylinder versus the traveling the distance after the hole in a ported cylinder would certainly not be more than a coupe of hundredths of a second. It all happens so fast with either cylinder it would seem to me they both reach compression in about the same amount of time.