Project P Nine Zero

[quote="Rhino"]

Silent_Option wrote:how about this one?

http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/Prometheus_MS110_Non_Linear_AEG_Spring_airsoft_p/58021.htm

Rhino wrote:

Silent_Option wrote:
BTW Rhino you are very elusive and a hard man to contact, I feel I underestimate the snnneeekyness

I was just messing with ya, but I completely understand, got a 7 month old baby boy myself who not only loves his daddy, but man it wears me out chasing him all over the house

I bet! Mine will be 2 in march

Whew! Kids are great huh!

So back on topic, what do you think of that prometheus spring. Read many raves about Prometheus productline, but I always value another opinion.

that's a major upgrade. i would hold off on the spring and gears. once you get the motor and battery installed, chrono it. if you need more speed, then continue on with the upgrades. the stock nozzle is one of the first things i upgraded. o-ring nozzles ftw. fix all the air leaks first. madbull blue bucking did a great job fixing the hopup leak.

Rhino wrote:We have the motor, battery, spring guide and thats it. I would chose another spring besides matrix I dont like them. but we could ship that stuff but if youd rather get it all at the same place no hard feelings.

that's a good start. also, hold off on the piston until it starts to fail.

if you want to fix that upper receiver wobble, i use foil tape to shim it with the lower stock.

from what i've read i wont need more speed, i just wanted to make sure to do it the right way, since this is my first build. My original plan was to speed up the motor and take the spring down a notch to accompany that, and it was suggested to change the piston and gears to hold up to the higher rof, but someone said you have been through this with the same model? I may take your advice, but if the piston begins to fail will it not hurt other parts?

p90 gearbox is very easy to take apart, just inspect the piston for wear after a day of skirmishing. as for the gears, i used the stock ones on a dsg setup and it held up at 35 rps during testing. i usually wait for things to break before i replace them. i've had pistons break and not do any damage to the internals. your rof isn't extreme enough to replace the spring or gears so soon.

you may consider getting a box mag. all my hi-cap p90 mags have feeding issues. haven't gotten around into fixing it since the box mag (m4 mag adapter) rox.

Yeah i was looking at getting a box mag, but concerned with when its "games over mags out" time, Ive heard if you remove the m4 mag with bb's still in the box mag they will just pour out. How do you handle that?

i keep the mag in. put it on safety and finger off the trigger. haven't had any problems.

btw, i get my box mag from KHMountain $24.99
it takes a few weeks for mailing. even though shipping is pricey, it's still cheaper than the main online prices in the u.s.

NICE. it looks to be the same as the one Evike offers and like u said with shipping its still much cheaper. thanks

Had a little time today at work since my truck was out of commission, and had the supplies so this is the result.







Just had too much time on my hands today, but Im happy with the result.

Looks good but way too shiny

yeah it looks very shiny, but its not as bad as in the pic. All i had was ultra flat tan and satin in this color, im waiting for it to fully cure before i decide if im gonna try to find a similar color in flat. The Ultra flat is not what i want for the entire gun body. I used it for my m4 and its ok to me on parts but i wanted to go darker than camo tan anyway.

Had some free time so I re-did the paint job on it friday.




Had a question, when putting in the AB fet do i take the in line fuse out of the wiring? I'm trying to get an idea of how this will wire up before it gets here, its kind of confusing because there are 2 sets of trigger contacts so any pictures would be great!






Bored waiting for my parts to get here, which should be wed. for the internals, and tomorrow for the AB Mosfets hopefully.

That flat tan with black top looks nice. I like that the trigger is black too, giving it some variation.

Hey thanks,

It was surprisingly easy. The trigger and safety switch came out with the removal of a small tab under the barrel assembly, and the spring loaded mag release just clicks onto the body, so once i removed those i put pieces of blue painters tape over each simulated body screw ( theyre just cosmetically purposeful) pressed down with a pencil then trimmed the excess with finish nail. the hobby knofe was to dull to keep the tape inplace and cut the ring plus it didnt really have room to work inside the hole and the nail left better coverage of tape. Then hit with 400 grit sanding block, then 3 coats of adhesive primer, then about 5 to 6 coats of Krylon Fusion Camo series Ultra Flat Tan (chip resistent after 7 days, and made for adhesion to plastics) peeled the tape off and bamm.

I figured someone would ask or want to know so I volunteered the info, but I'm glad you likey.

Got a stubby suppressor en route from HK now for 13 bucks, but i plan on adding several pics once i get all the parts in, just to add to the fun

looks great

wolf likes, good work

requested pics:

this is with Reed's mosfet (for NiMH)
ignore the black tape, it's to disable full auto for DMR
the thin dark red is the stock wiring




alternative wiring with KHM mosfet (for LiPo)

AWESOME! Thanks, did you do anything to the 2 contancts inside the trigger assembly? Also reeds mosfet will work for lipo right? Kind of confused as to what u mean with ones for lipo and ones not.

I will be running a 7.4 20c lipo does that have to be wired different?

use diagram 2 for lipo with reed's.
the one i have above is for 9.6v 1600 mAH. i used the stock wires for the positive motor cable.
the second diagram uses 16awg directly from battery pos to motor pos. it's more efficient.
the first one has a connection break between battery pos and motor pos. since i was using NiMH battery, it wasn't pushing high current like a LiPo.

i didn't touch anything within the trigger contacts. that's just a low power trigger to turn on the mosfet.

note: you can still use the first diagram, just replace the motor positive cable with 16 awg.

Thanks for the wiring diagrams, was so much easier to have a visual aid.

Got the parts wed. and got it back together wed. night. The tater tot and wife were in the bed, since it was after midnight, so i couldn't test fire it. finally got to it this morning and works great! Dont have the GB back in the gun yet just because I got some new toys today, and im waiting on some stuff from KHM anyway so not really in a hurry.....YET.

Heres the latest. I can never put down the tools long enough to take pictures so sorry there are no tweener pics.

You need to change that deans connector! The female is for batteries! if you put a male on a battery you are making a huge mistake! It will be sure easy to short a battery out with a male on it! I have seen it before, a battery and book bag catch fire because the battery shorted on a zipper.

WOW I didn't even think about that. That makes much more sense!

After a long wait on parts from HK they finally came today, and it's complete! I havent chronoed it yet or even had a chance to fire it with the 7.4v 20c lipo, but that will be very soon and I will post the stats, just for fun.

Looks good man!

Looks real nice!!!

Thanks! this is going to be my SS Airsoft special, i just hope that lense for the reflex sight doesnt get shot out!